The Patek Philippe Calatrava – An Interview with James Tann

Tell us a bit about you, your role and how long have you worked with Patek Philippe?

I’m the Assistant Manager at Prestons Norwich, where I’ve had the privilege of working with Patek Philippe for a number of years now, almost 7 years. The last year has been incredibly exciting - our recently extended, and refurbished showroom is beautiful, and I have so enjoyed introducing both new and existing clients to the space and making them feel at home.

It’s the perfect place to experience Patek Philippe’s wristwatches but also to learn more about what makes the brand and their collections so special – it truly embodies their values.

Can you tell us anything about the new space at Prestons Norwich?

The space is wonderful. It was designed by the brand’s architects in Geneva and is decorated in classic cream and brown. The area provides three unique seating areas in which to introduce our clients to the Patek Philippe collection, welcome existing clients, or explore the service of a client’s Patek Philippe watch.

The team and I are always here to guide any client through the Patek Philippe collections and for many, the experience of choosing their first watch becomes a memory in itself, so having such a warm and welcoming space to invite clients into makes it even more special.

What’s your favourite Patek Philippe watch?

It is almost impossible to pick just one reference but at the moment one of my favourites is Ref. 6119R Calatrava as it is just fantastic. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's signature classically round wristwatch. Launched as the brand’s very first collection in 1932 with the introduction of Ref.96. The collection lends its name to the iconic Calatrava cross design which can be found on the crown of all Patek Philippe's watches.

It is a simpler watch, executed perfectly in rose gold, but also in white gold, Ref. 6119G. These two references were introduced at Watches & Wonders in 2021 and feature a slightly larger, arguably more modern case size as well as the new calibre, 30-255 PS.

For me, the hobnail pattern on the bezel, which is created by a hand-machining technique called guilloche is this watches’ signature. The name ‘Clous de Paris’ refers to this type of decoration, which is traditionally used to provide grip on the watch case. In this instance, although inspired by Calatrava’s of the past and the brand’s heritage, it looks modern, strong and interesting; I can picture this watch being worn on a more formal occasion, perhaps with a suit, or with a simpler, weekend aesthetic.

What is something that surprises people about Patek Philippe?

Our clients at both Prestons Wilmslow and Prestons Norwich often have the impression that Patek Philippe only makes dress watches, but in truth you can find a watch for any occasion within their collections. Their signature, as I have mentioned above, is the Calatrava. This collection bridges the gap between formal dress watches and more casual or sporty watches, it features strong, refined lines and offers a model to suit any taste or style.

For a more contemporary take, another of my favourite models is Ref. 5226G-001. It features a textured dial inspired by vintage camera cases and somehow perfectly blends a vintage inspired wristwatch with a highly contemporary feel. This model is accompanied by two interchangeable straps: one in beige calfskin with a nubuck finish and the other in black calfskin with an embossed fabric motif and beige topstitching – it is two different styles, in one.

Is the Calatrava all simple in design?

It isn’t – it may be known for its timeless and understated design, but Patek Philippe are continuously pushing the boundaries of what is possible with the collection. In 2023, the brand introduced a colourful new version of the Calatrava, Ref. 6007. The references, three in total, feature sky blue, red or yellow accents with striking ebony black dials.

Each watch features three different types of finishing with the centre embossed with what is described as a ‘carbon’ pattern or motif. The models feel somewhat casual and yet sporty. The bright pops of colour are a perfect blend between classic and modern.

Finally, what makes Patek Philippe special as a brand?

I think it’s their dedication to creativity and pushing the boundaries of what is truly possible in the world of watchmaking. Each reference, or even collection, perfectly showcases how passionate they are about quality and innovation, and it ensures their collections last a lifetime.

The brand creates around 70,000 watches per year and have made a commitment to service every single watch since 1839.

A line that always stays with me is “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation” and I think this commitment supports that sentiment wholeheartedly and really sets them apart from many other watch brands.

If you would like to discover more about the Patek Philippe collection, then please do not hesitate to contact Prestons Norwich online or by telephone to make an appointment.