New Military-Inspired TUDOR Pelagos FXD - Worthy of the US Navy

The Pelagos FXD is TUDOR’s collection of professional divers’ watches, designed to withstand the extremities of underwater exploration and competitive yacht racing. ‘FXD’ refers to the fixed bars which hold the strap, ensuring that the watch remains attached to the wrist no matter the conditions. TUDOR’s latest release is a Pelagos FXD with a striking black dial and unidirectional bezel, inspired by the brand’s long history with the US Navy.

TUDOR’s relationship with the US Navy goes back to the 1950s, when the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7928 became part of US Navy divers’ official equipment. The new Pelagos FXD pays tribute to those watches, prioritising the practical elements which made them such vital life-saving tools for military divers of the past.

One such diver was Philip ‘Moki’ Martin, veteran of the Vietnam War, Maui native, artist and watch collector. After an illustrious military career, Moki still owns the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7928 he was issued on his graduation in 1965. This watch accompanied him through military diving operations, HALO (High Altitude Low Opening) skydiving jumps, and high-risk combat missions which earned Moki the Navy and Marine Corps Commendation Medal with a combat "V" for valour. Throughout these endeavours, he relied on his watch to provide him with crucial information.

The new Pelagos FXD follows in the footsteps of watches such as Moki’s, and has been designed to be a true modern divers’ watch. In a change from other models in the family, the bezel is unidirectional, making this an ISO rated watch. The bezel turns through sixty clicks, a reference to the safe in Geneva, dropping into place at 12 o’clock to provide tactile feedback even in poor visibility. Blue SuperLumiNova has been chosen to fill the numerals, hands and hour markers because blue light travels farthest underwater. The fixed strap bars are integrated into the case, ensuring maximum robustness. Fixed bars were adopted for military divers’ watches as they allow for two points of failure; if one bar breaks, the strap will remain around the diver’s wrist, keeping their watch secure until they can reach the surface.

In aesthetics as well as function, the new Pelagos FXD combines vintage sensibilities with up-to-date flair. The black dial provides excellent contrast against the snowflake hands and signature square hour markers. The bezel is slightly faded or ‘ghosted’, giving the watch an authentic feel. ‘Pelagos’ is written in red at 6 o’clock, in homage to the divers’ watches of the 1960s. A matte finish on the case completes the tool watch aesthetic, complementing the faded black of the bezel.

The case is crafted from grade 5 titanium, and offers 200m of waterproofness. At 42mm in diameter and 12.75mm thick, this is a slightly thinner rendition of the Pelagos design. The bezel is designed to be larger than the case, making it easier to grip underwater or while wearing gloves. Each watch comes with a self-fastening TUDOR jacquard strap in khaki and red, as well as a tear-proof black rubber strap, which has been embossed to resemble fabric.

The new TUDOR Pelagos FXD offers military capability to the wearer, drawing from the brand’s impressive heritage to create a watch which pays tribute to the past while incorporating modern functionality. This is a pragmatic timepiece, ideal for the collector with military sensibilities, or for the wearer who relies on their watch to accompany them through any activity and all conditions.

If you would like to discuss the TUDOR Pelagos FXD or explore the rest of our TUDOR collection, we would invite you to contact Prestons Wilmslow or Prestons Guildford by telephone, via our online contact form, or by visiting us in-store. One of our specialists will be happy to guide you through any enquiry you may have.