Among the watches unveiled by Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders this year was a new model for the Calatrava collection. The Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R-001 combines Patek Philippe’s signature Travel Time function with a 24-hour index and a new patented system for correcting the local time by the crown. With its navy blue dial and sleek rose gold case, this watch combines quintessential Calatrava design with practical functionality.
The Calatrava is the epitome of the round wristwatch. This collection follows a simple design ethos, creating timeless style. With this minimalism as its foundation, Patek Philippe has developed the Calatrava collection with a variety of complications, selecting functions which are both useful and elegant.
The Ref. 5224R-001 displays home and local time via two central hands tracking a 24-hour dial. This eliminates the need for day/night indicators, which have previously been a staple of the Travel Time system. The design nods to the 24-hour dials of Patek Philippe’s past, such as their renowned Gondolo pocket watches.
The index is arranged so that noon appears at 12 o’clock, rather than at 6 o’clock as might be expected. This keeps the daylight hours at the top of the dial, ensuring maximum legibility when the wearer is most likely to check the time. The Arabic numerals are hand-applied in rose gold and filled with luminescent coating. Small seconds appear at 6 o’clock, intersecting the hour track. Contrasting finishes define the different areas of the dial, with a circular striated centre, circular satin finish on the hour circle, and snailed small seconds outlined in rose gilt.
At 42mm in diameter, the rose gold case allows plenty of space for this dial layout to shine. The curved lugs drape around the wrist, giving the watch a slim profile that easily accommodates a dress cuff. The two-tier shape of the lugs is a subtle Art Deco touch. A blue nubuck strap complements the dial while providing a pleasing contrast with the rose gold.
A sapphire crystal case back reveals the new Caliber 31‑260 PS FUS 24H, a self-winding movement featuring a 48-hour power reserve. Continuing the streamlining of the Travel Time system, the traditional pushers are replaced with a new patented three-position crown. The outermost position allows simultaneous setting of home and local time, while the middle position sets local time in either direction in 1-hour steps. This elegant solution keeps the case sleek, while preserving ease of use.
The Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R-001 is a welcome addition to the Calatrava collection. It offers all the usefulness of the Travel Time complication, reimagined through the simple design ethos that characterises a true Calatrava. With a novel dial design with its roots in the history of the Manufacture, this is a truly elegant way to track time across the globe.
Here at Prestons, we have partnered with Patek Philippe for over two decades. Our Wilmslow showroom offers the perfect environment to explore the Patek Philippe collections with the help of our knowledgeable experts. If you would like to make an appointment, we would invite you to contact us by telephone or via our online contact form.